Like some of you, I have a small sailboat (17' 2") but sometimes dream of sailing on bigger boats to places you cannot get to safely on this size boat. I am fortunate. I not only have my "trailer sailor" (in my garage awaiting repairs), but also have a very good friend with a 33' Morgan Out Islander ( Luna Sea), an understanding wife, and a great company which will let me take 2 1/2 weeks off to go sailing in the Bahamas.
Picture: The Luna Sea
For the past 15 or so years, my friend Jerry and I have been going to the Bahamas sailing for two weeks. Every year, these trips have been great, sailing through most of the Islands. We always seem to find new places to go.
This year Jerry, our friend Rick and I were going to go to the Exuma Cays.
It started out like a James Bond movie. I rushed to the Atlanta airport to get on a plane to Miami (standby of course). Once I reached Miami, I took a cab to Monte Trainers in Coconut Grove. There I jumped into our speedy dingy (an 11' Boston Whaler), to be taken to the Luna Sea. There I went below to change into the appropriate uniform, swimsuit and Jimmy Buffet T-shirt. We were off.
Unfortunately, this was about 4:00pm on Wednesday, and we had to be in Nassau on Saturday to pick up Rick. Fortunately, Jerry's son Mark went with us to help. We had to cross the Gulf Stream at night. It was a pleasant crossing (I slept most of the time), but we arrived at Gun Cay before daybreak. A little scary when you can see the light at Gun Cay, but not the land. We finally anchored so Jerry and Mark could get some sleep until daybreak.
Picture: Gun Cay Light
The next day, we cleared customs at Cat Cay and wanted to top off our fuel tanks, but the fuel barge was at the dock, so we set out for Chub Cay across the Great Bahama Bank. Clearing customs took longer than we expected (2 hours) so we were a little late leaving. The little bit of wind we had was right on our nose (as it was to be most of the trip) so we had to motor the whole way.
About a third of the way to Chub Cay, we noticed our fuel was low. Not being sure that we could make it to Chub Cay, Jerry called a nearby trawler on the VHF. He was more that happy to give us 10 gallons of fuel to help us out. Our truly "MOBILE" gas station. Just shows you the type of people you meet in boats of all types.
After getting our diesel, it was getting late so we decided to anchor on the bank. It is a strange feeling to be anchored in 20' of water with no land in sight. Thank goodness no other boats were traveling our way that night.
The next morning, we set out for Chub Cay. Mark tried a little fishing, but was only able to catch a good sized barracuda. We were getting close to Chub Cay, when we were hit by a rain squall. Fortunately, it stopped before we reached Mama Rhoda Rocks. This is a tricky enough area in clear weather.
When we finally arrived at Chub Cay, we found out that our fuel gauge was not functioning properly and we had plenty of fuel. That night, we anchored outside of the marina entrance and had our first "Sunset Observance Party" (SOP).
The SOP is a tradition that Jerry, Rick and I began many years ago and is a great way to end the day. After sailing (or motoring all day) pick an anchorage near a nice beach. After you get everything "ship shape", put your favorite beverage (ours are wine and VO) into your dingy. We have also added peanuts in the shell. Then "dink" over to the beach and anchor in about 1 1/2 to 2 feet of water. With beverage in hand and peanuts popping, sit back in "knee" deep water and watch the sun go down. It sometimes plays havoc on fixing diner, but is a great way to end the day.
The next day, we left Chub Cay for Nassau Yatch Harbor to pick up Rick and unfortunately, let Mark go home. Some people really have to work for a living. We then left Nassau for two weeks in the Exuma Cays.
This was one of the few times we were able to put up a sail. Our original course put the wind on our nose but the seas were "choppy" at 3 to 5 feet while heading for Allan's/Highbourne Cays. We adjusted our course more southerly, so that we could use the wind to stabilize the boat with the jib. This meant that we had to skirt the southern part of Yellow Bank.
Picture: Iguanas on Leaf Cay
We made it without mishap and had our SOP on the beach at Southwest Allan's Cay with about 15 curious iguanas. These Cays are known for their large iguana population. We spent the next day, watching and taking pictures of them on Leaf Cay.
During the next few days, we went to Norman's Cay, Warderick Wells Cay, Little Farmer's Cay and then to Elizabeth Harbor. When entering Warderick Wells (Exuma National Sea Park), we forgot to check the GPS Way point and ended up in about 3 feet of water bumping bottom. After turning around, Rick and I jumped into the dingy to try and find a way through the sand bar. After getting soaked in the dingy and trying numerous ways through the sand bar, we eventually had to go back out 4 miles to get to the right entrance into Warderick Wells; but it was well worth it. Warderick Wells is not only a wonderful place to visit and see the "hill of signs", but to talk with the volunteers who work to keep this place running. They are from all over the world and each have their own adventures to tell you. One of the volunteers we met during our "SOP" was originally from England, and had been to South Africa and New Zealand, before coming here. Boy did he have some great adventures.
Picture: Hill of Signs at Warderick Wells
On our way to Elizabeth Harbor, Rick decided to do a little trolling for dolphin. The water was deep and Rick had his "special" lures. By the way, bringing large fish onto the back of a good size sailboat is not the easiest thing in the world. Dolphin like to go around and under the boat and the dingy, and the rigging does not make it easy to work the fish. As usual, Rick hooked two dolphins on two lines. We worked one on board while the other one got away. The 20 lb dolphin we caught supplemented our meals for the rest of the trip, so we were glad we lost the second fish. Don't want to waste natural resources. Two years ago, we caught a 60 lb. dolphin on the way to Little El Salvador, but that is another story.
When we reached Stocking Island, we anchored off of the Peace and Plenty Beach Club, had a SOP and ate "gourmet" grilled dolphin for dinner. What a life....
Picture: Rick with the dolphin we caught
We finally had to spend some time on shore, so we took up dock space at the Georgetown Marina. Rick had to leave the next day and a strong Northeasterner was coming in. After getting the boat straight, we headed for the Peace and Plenty Hotel. The first person we saw at the bar was the "Doctor of Libation" (Lermon Rolle). We had not been here in two years and he still remembered us. We also met a group of people from Guantanomo Bay, Cuba who were over for a little R&R. We partied that night and I had to go back to the boat for some serious R&R. The next few days, the winds kept coming, so Jerry and I went to visit the Doctor again and again. I think I now know why he remembered us.
Picture: The "Doctor of Libation"
Finally, the winds let up, so Jerry and I took off for Rudder Cay. We finally got to put the jib up. After a few hours of sailing, we anchored at Rudder Cay by the "round" house on the hill which has a great beach for our SOP. The next day we just "dinked" around looking at the unused "Sub-dock" at Darby Island and around Musha Cay where they are building a major resort/vacation area. One afternoon, Jerry and I went to the shallows between Musha Cay and Jimmy's Cay and collected sand dollars for my children. Dad's got to bring something home.
We finally left Rudder Cay for our final destination, Staniel Cay. We anchored near the Thunderball Caves and just hung out for a few days. While at the Staniel Cay Yatch club, we met a group of boaters who's boat had been hit by lightning (we had a few storms come in while we were there.) All of their electronics had been ruined. They had extras for most of their equipment, but no GPS. Jerry called the crew that was coming in to take the boat from us and asked them bring a portable GPS for our new friends.
One thing that impresses me is how the boating community in the Bahamas help each other out. Our "Mobile" gas station and equipment replacement is how boaters look out for each other. I should probably list all of the wonderful people, boaters and Bahamians, that we meet, but it would take too long. I just hope I see them again soon, maybe next year in the Abacos.
Picture: Me with the Dolphin (I did gaff it)
By the way, if you are ever planning a sailing trip to the Bahamas and want to insure you will get the right wind, find out what my trip plan is and do the opposite. That way you will be guaranteed to have great wind. Also, if you see two or three people sitting in the water by a beach and a dingy, it will probably be us. Stop by and join the "SOP".
